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He purchased the restaurant from its original owners, Thy and Steve Ngo, in 2017. Eventually, he added a dumpling with supple wheat-based skin and a filling with chicken, lemongrass, ginger and a few other ingredients. Common ingredients are chopped pork (typically belly and loin), cabbage, ginger root, garlic chive, celery, scallion, shiitake mushroom and Shaoxing wine. Lai serves handmade chicken and pork dumplings that are made from scratch from wrapper to filling, at his Downtown Korean restaurant, which opened in 2017. All of these countries inherited their dumplings from Chinese kitchens, yet versatility and personalization are more common as each culinary culture adapts its recipes to the ingredients of its foodways and the traditions of its families.
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Henry’s Cuisine
Most recipes are based on food she grew up eating or learned to cook once she moved to the U.S., using ingredients you can get at any Trader Joe’s or Whole Foods instead of a specialty store. Fried chicken dumplings are packed with springy ground chicken and aromatic lemongrass. They’re cooked to a tender-crunchy texture comparable to a pot sticker. Drench them in the soy-based dipping sauce, which is savory and herbaceous and has a soft, building heat on the back end.
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These dumplings are light enough that you could eat 10 rounds of them and not feel overly full. That said, even with premade wrappers, it might take beginners a lot of practice before their fingers develop the requisite muscle memory to fill, fold and pleat at a record pace. She cooked professionally for three years before burning out one night after working more than 300 meals.
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From behind a glass wall, eager diners can watch Chef Do Leung as he expertly crafts made-to-order dumplings, gyoza and dessert buns. While the sake, wine, and beer menu is a local-packed list of our favorites (think Sapporo and Anchor Steam), Dumpling Time is really all about the food. Buns come in five classic Chinese and Japanese varieties, filled with either meat, fish or vegetables. Increase the heat to medium-high and cook, uncovered, until the cornstarch dissolves and dries, forming “wings” that are lacy and crispy, 2 to 4 minutes. Remove skillet from heat and let the gyoza rest in the skillet until any bubbling subsides, 1 to 2 minutes. While some of her offerings require time, many of the dishes in “Make it Japanese” will easily come together on a busy weekend night.
The boiled Xi'an veggie dumplings at Dumpling Time in San Francisco get a fresh finish with produce ... This dish includes a lot of buzz words, like “lobster” and “white truffle oil,” but it’s mostly a stunt. You’ll be more excited to tell people you ate these than you will be to order them again. Cover with lid and steam the gyoza until most of the water has evaporated, 6 to 8 minutes. Using your dominant hand, place a scant 1 tablespoon filling in the center of the wrapper.
Using chopsticks or a spatula, loosen the “wings.” Place a large plate on top of the gyoza. Flip the skillet upside down to invert the gyoza onto the plate. In a small bowl or measuring cup, combine ⅓ cup water, 1½ teaspoons cornstarch and a pinch of salt. Dip your fingers in water and lightly wet one half of the wrapper’s rim. Three months later, she was hired as a full-time video producer and she soon was also appearing in videos on YouTube for BuzzFeed, though she admits to being very self-conscious about her English skills and Japanese accent.
Instead, she watched her mom for “hours on end as she folded gyoza faster than my eyes could follow and never measured ingredients — one circular pour of soy sauce, a handful of bonito flakes, a dash of sake,” she writes in the book’s intro. He says he was inspired by Steve Ngo’s Chinese-Vietnamese heritage to look into how he could offer a twist on Vietnamese-style dumplings, which typically have a rice- or tapioca-starch wrapper. Han started making dumplings 55 years ago when he was 14 and working in a Korean-Chinese restaurant in Korea.
Doing the small things every step of the way — making sure all the water is rendered from vegetables like cabbage so the wrapper can form a cohesive bond with the fillings, for example — makes a massive difference in the final product. Han says they’re typically prepared in home kitchens for holidays and celebrations, like marking a child’s first birthday. “There used to be kings and queens in Korea, and it was originally a food for them. Commoners didn’t eat dumplings because it wasn’t something they could afford,” Han says. After hitting up one of L.A.’s best Chinese restaurants, check out these sweet spots.
At age 33, she enrolled at the French Culinary Institute (now the Institute of Culinary Education) thinking she might become a food stylist. She had so much fun and loved cooking so much that, after graduating, she became a chef instead, moving to Los Angeles with her husband to become a chef at two Santa Monica restaurants. Wagyu beef and black truffles are featured in one of the popular gyoza preparations. And Maine lobster gets a shot of truffle oil in the seafood Siu Mei option.
This innovative restaurant is part of the Omakase Restaurant Group, which includes Niku Steakhouse, Breakfast at Tiffany’s and the namesake Omakase. That 14-seat, high-end sushi restaurant earned a star in the prestigious Michelin Guide. Sign up to unlock our digital magazines and also receive the latest news, events, offers and partner promotions. These gyoza are stuffed with shrimp, crab, and scallops, and taste like everything good about the ocean packed into one perfect, mildly spicy bite. It’s a little greasy, but the puffiness of the donut makes up for it.
Chang’s, blends his experience with the restaurant chain, memories of his Hill District and Sheraden childhood and his love of other Pittsburgh food businesses into mixtures for the dumplings he serves at pop-ups throughout the region. White’s website and Instagram account are the best way to find out what and where he’s serving every week. His passion for blending culinary cultures mirrors the city’s evolving palette, which has come a long way since those first openings in 1983.
Having operated in the area for over 20 years, Kang Kang Food Court has drawn the likes of celebrity Momofuku chef David Chang through its doors for its piping hot, juicy deep-fried soup dumplings. However, the rest of its menu is full of quieter delights, like a mini shrimp wonton soup and Suzhou-style fresh pork mooncakes, that keep locals in the know coming back time and time again. She also makes the gyoza with a lacy, crispy crust on the bottom called “wings,” or hane in Japanese — created by adding a cornstarch slurry to the pan while the dumplings are steam-frying.
Dumpling Time's Tom Yum soup dumplings are filled with pork belly and coconut milk, wrapped in a ... Housemade noodles with ground pork, green onion, garlic, ginger, and soybean paste that aren’t super heavy. This isn’t vital, but it’s still a nice break to have between all the dumplings. Dumpling Time is a small and lively dim sum spot near CCA that’s basically always packed, especially for dinner. It feels more like a lobby restaurant in a trendy hotel than one of the banquet-style dim sum places you’ll find in Chinatown or the Richmond, with long communal tables, neon signs, and an entire wall covered in projected K-pop music videos. It’s a fun spot to start a night out, but the main reason this place always has a wait is the food.
Once you get the hang of it, you’ll find gyoza are incredibly fun to make, even if they’re not perfect. “You definitely don’t want to go on a date after eating them, they’re so stinky,” McClenny says with a laugh. Geared to those new to Japanese cooking, the book also includes instructions on how to stock a Japanese pantry and has a short chapter on essential Japanese cooking tools. This sentiment of passion and heritage is echoed by Lai of Bae Bae’s Kitchen, who sees dumplings as carriers of culture and comfort. It was something I wanted to do because of how much I love to cook,” he explains. Vietnamese dumplings have the most potential for growth in Pittsburgh.
If you’re in the mood for something brothy, go for the mandu guk, which highlights Kwon’s dumplings in a soothing soup. Thai Place, opened in 1989, is the region’s longest-standing Thai restaurant business. Its Wexford location is the last of several restaurants with the same name operated by Santi and Surin Thamwiwat, and it’s a solid destination for Thai dumplings. Go for the steamed version, which includes chopped chicken bolstered with herbaceous celery leaves. Diced carrot replaces the more traditional fish roe atop the sui mai, adding a vegetal sweetness.
The texture is similar to Japanese tempura, but flakier, and it’s served with a fresh slice of lemon on top. Once you finish dinner, there aren’t a ton of options nearby to keep your night going—you’ll have to catch a ride somewhere else for your next stop. But if you don’t care about that, or are just looking for a good, fun place to meet someone who lives on the other side of the city as you, Dumpling Time is a good spot to end up at.
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